Thursday masses

Although the country is predominately Catholic, most people do not attend mass. And although I am not Catholic, I adore the architecture, design, and decoration of Latin American churches, and am really interested in liberation theology, so I personally love to attend mass. It’s also a great way to get to know people and the issues of the community. I have gone to Sunday mass a couple times, which is located in the main church of Cangahua (the blue one in the pictures--inside it looks like a typical Latin American church with saints and colorful decoration...this one also holds a skull in a glass. I am uncomfortable with taking pictures inside places of worship, or else I would for your enjoyment. If you have never seen a church in Latin America, Google pictures of them. They are amazing). Thursday´s mass however is my favorite-it is held in a small room inside the Priest´s house.
In the front of the room is a low wooden table, covered with a woven tapestry (typical handicraft of the indigenous sold in the market), with 2 black candles and a Bible sitting on top. The priest sits behind it on a wooden stool about 2 feet off of the ground, consisting of unfinished wooden planks. A few small (yes, small, meaning 2 ft in height, 1 in width, and 1.5 in length) stools are positioned around the table with higher wooden benches located on 3 walls. The wall behind the priest is painted yellow and covered in interesting objects, definitely revealing the pervasiveness of syncretism--a clay, almost cartoonish like mask of Jesus with blood dripping from his mouth is hung in the center, backed with a colorful tapestry. On the left side of Jesus hangs a feather covered necklace, and on the right hangs a traditional bow and arrow.
On the right side of the room lies a large tree branch. In front of it sits an aloe plant and a candle. Another candle also sits in a nook of the branch, next to another Jesus face. This face seems to be made of wood, perhaps stained a darker color, and serves as a secret door to the communion cup. Before communion the priest opens Jesus´s face to remove a silver cup from inside.
Meanwhile, the congregation is just as interesting. You have Rosa, the well-dressed and wealthy mestizo Cabina (telephone services) owner who always volunteers to read scripture and answers all questions posed during service, and leads in song when the others have forgotten the words (hymnals are not used here). Then you have 2 or 3 older indigenous women-they seems to have traveled from ärriba¨(the hills), are a bit dirty, yet have the kindest eyes and warmest smiles. There are usually another 2 or 3 teenage boys, who of course make things interesting. They always giggle when ¨passing the peace¨with the gringas. Kris and I often catch them snickering when we attempt to sing, or when we trip over spanish words during the read & response. Last night they were playing with a stuffed teddy bear the entire time, pretending that it was singing, praying, etc. Then you have Kris and I- Kris has bright red, thick, curly hair, and Im always bundled up in my hat and scarf, so visually we are quite the extranjeros (foreigners). The language and culture barriers/differences just add to this dynamic. And Im not Catholic, so even if the mass was in english I would sit, stand, and kneel at the wrong time. And I dont have the hymns or prayers memorized by heart, nor in spanish. So that´s another strike against me. The people are kind, but I must say I often feel inappropriate and awkward. Lastly, you have the priest. Padrecito (the priest) is a rather short man (or average height if we are comparing him to the men of the Sierra), with big intense, black eyes, dressed in a white robe, tennis shoes, and a knit cloth around his neck, and hair slicked back. He speaks almost in a whisper, which is simultaneously soothing and super eerie, and makes eye contact with no one. He is also indigenous, which creates quite the conflict in Cangahua center, where the majority is mestizo. Cangahua consists of the small town center and 48 surrounding communities located in the hills above the village. Apparently he is loved by the more rural communities, but has a controversial presence in town.
The etiquette of mass also strikes me as odd. It officially begins at 6:30 pm when the church bell chimes, but never actually starts on time. Kris and I are always the first there and people continue straggling in until 7 or so. In the Sierra you usually greet the group when entering a room, so each latecomer enters and interrupts the scripture reading or sermon with ¨buenas noches.¨There is often a kid or 2 running in and out of the room, and many times one of the women is breastfeeding her baby (this is an acceptable practice anywhere and everywhere in Ecuador). The cat likes to peek its head in every now and then as well.
To top it off, this past Thursday the Padrecito spoke of the books of Corinthians, likening the city of Corinth to Cangahua. In Corinthians Paul write of the divisions in the community, and lack of unity and solidarity among the people. I have heard numerous sermons on such matters, but my current context gives it a whole new meaning. Classism, racism, sexism, etc....these tensions obviously also exist in North Carolina, but the history, culture, and significance is different and easier for me to ¨see¨here. And the fact that the Padre is an indigenous, speaking from a place of lower status & privilege...this is much different than the well-paid, white, middle/upper class man in Suburbia, US, that I am used to. And the congregation to whom they speak is obviously very different as well.
The dynamic between people and physical place of worship is so interesting, as you can hopefully imagine. But I love these strange masses, as they have given me more insight into cultural norms, and remind me of where I am and also where I come from...meaning they remind me of all these social and cultural constructions, my reference points and the lens through which I view my experiences here.